流动群体跨地方饮食适应的多元策略及身份协商——广州案例

doi:10.18306/dlkxjz.2022.04.010

地理科学进展 ›› 2022, Vol. 41 ›› Issue (4): 660-669.doi: 10.18306/dlkxjz.2022.04.010

流动群体跨地方饮食适应的多元策略及身份协商——广州案例

曾国军(), 林家惠^*(), 钟淑如

中山大学旅游学院,广州 510275

收稿日期:2021-04-14 修回日期:2021-10-02 出版日期:2022-04-28 发布日期:2022-06-28
通讯作者: *林家惠(1997— ),女,广东汕尾人,博士生,主要研究方向为饮食地理。E-mail: linjh76@mail2.sysu.edu.cn
作者简介:曾国军(1977— ),男,湖南华容人,教授,博导,主要研究方向为酒店管理与饮食地理。E-mail: zenggj@mail.sysu.edu.cn
基金资助:
国家自然科学基金项目(41901164);国家自然科学基金项目(41971190);国家自然科学基金项目(42071174);英国经济和社会研究委员会国际合作项目(ES/R005303/1)

Multivariate strategies and identity negotiation of trans-local dietary adaptation of immigrant groups: A case study of Guangzhou City

ZENG Guojun(), LIN Jiahui^*(), ZHONG Shuru

School of Tourism Management, Sun Yat-sen University, Guangzhou 510275, China

Received:2021-04-14 Revised:2021-10-02 Online:2022-04-28 Published:2022-06-28
Supported by:
National Natural Science Foundation of China(41901164);National Natural Science Foundation of China(41971190);National Natural Science Foundation of China(42071174);British Economic and Social Research Council International Cooperation Project(ES/R005303/1)

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

流动性语境中,流动群体因其承载的源地文化基因与在地饮食文化的碰撞,不可避免地陷入维系源地饮食与融入在地饮食的两难境地,从而引发了饮食调适与身份焦虑等问题。尽管学界探讨了流动群体在不同饮食文化影响下的调适策略,但大多将固守源地文化与接纳在地文化进行对立,忽视了个体能动的协商过程。论文基于文化地理学视角,以广州流动群体为研究对象,分析他们在跨地方饮食适应过程中采取的多元策略及身份协商。研究发现,在不同地方饮食文化的影响下,流动群体跨地方饮食适应的策略包括饮食同化、饮食融合、饮食隔离与饮食边缘化。在不同策略之下,流动群体的日常饮食实践呈现出差异化的特征,并使得原本单一的源地身份认同趋于复杂化。论文提出了跨地方饮食适应的分析框架,讨论了饮食适应的多元策略与身份协商之关系,为文化地理学视角下的移民与饮食研究提供了新的理论视野,在实践层面上有利于促进流动群体的饮食适应与社会融入。

关键词: 流动群体, 跨地方, 饮食适应, 调适策略, 身份认同

Abstract:

In the context of mobility, due to the collision between the home culture gene and local food culture, immigrant groups inevitably fall into the dilemma of maintaining the home dietary tradition and integrating into the local food culture, which leads to problems such as dietary adjustment and identity anxiety. Although scholars have discussed the adjustment strategies of floating population groups under the influence of different food cultures, most of them regard the relationship between adhering to the home dietary tradition and accepting the local food culture as a kind of opposition, ignoring the negotiation process of individual initiatives. From the perspective of cultural geography, this study took the immigrant group in Guangzhou City as the research object and analyzed the multiple strategies and identity negotiation adopted by them in the process of trans-local dietary adaptation. It was found that under the influence of different local dietary cultures, the strategies of trans-local dietary adaptation of floating population groups include dietary assimilation, dietary integration, dietary isolation, and dietary marginalization. Under different strategies, the daily diet practices of the immigrant group show different characteristics and complicate the original single identity. This study proposed an integrated analytical framework for trans-local dietary adaptation and discussed the relationship between multiple strategies of dietary adaptation and identity negotiation. It provides a new theoretical perspective for understanding migration and diet based on cultural geography theories, and may facilitate the dietary adaptation and social integration of floating population groups in practice.

Key words: immigrant group, trans-local, dietary adaptation, adjustment strategy, identity

曾国军, 林家惠, 钟淑如. 流动群体跨地方饮食适应的多元策略及身份协商——广州案例[J]. 地理科学进展, 2022, 41(4): 660-669.

ZENG Guojun, LIN Jiahui, ZHONG Shuru. Multivariate strategies and identity negotiation of trans-local dietary adaptation of immigrant groups: A case study of Guangzhou City[J]. PROGRESS IN GEOGRAPHY, 2022, 41(4): 660-669.

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属性	类别	数量/人
性别	男	14
性别	女	24
年龄	20~30岁	7
	31~40岁	13
	41~50岁	11
	51~60岁	7
原籍地	广东省内(除广州外)	6
原籍地	广东省外	32
在广州的居住年限	1 a以内	5
	1~5 a	5
	6~10 a	15
	11~20 a	7
	20 a以上	6

调适策略	维持源地文化	接受在地文化	流动群体共同特征	日常饮食实践特征	身份协商
饮食同化	低	高	居住年限在10 a以上; 饮食文化距离较近; 社会融入程度高	完全接纳在地饮食,日常饮食具有鲜明的粤菜特征,饮食的地方性知识丰富	在地身份认同
饮食融合	高	高	居住年限在1~10 a; 饮食文化距离较近; 社会融入程度高	融合源地与在地饮食,日常饮食杂糅了两地饮食特征,仅熟悉典型的粤菜文化	两地身份协商
饮食隔离	高	低	居住年限在1 a以内; 饮食文化距离较远; 社会融入程度低	完全拒绝在地饮食,日常饮食以家乡菜为主,单调且重复,排斥在地饮食文化	源地身份认同
饮食边缘化	低	低	社会文化背景多元; 地方流动经历丰富	接纳多地饮食,日常饮食无明显的菜系归属,多变且丰富,不熟悉在地饮食文化	多地身份协商

流动群体跨地方饮食适应的多元策略及身份协商——广州案例

Multivariate strategies and identity negotiation of trans-local dietary adaptation of immigrant groups: A case study of Guangzhou City

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