怀旧消费空间地方建构的比较研究——以广州怀旧餐厅为例

doi:10.11820/dlkxjz.2015.04.012

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

在全球化深入发展的今天,都市怀旧消费风潮已渗透至社会文化生活诸多领域。许多怀旧餐厅也应运而生,形成以城市怀旧为主题的特殊消费空间和文化空间。全球与地方在消费文化转化中相互促进,地方文化形态正在发生变化,不同怀旧消费空间的地方建构是否存在差异?本文选择广州太平馆、巴打怀旧茶餐厅两个不同特点的怀旧餐厅为案例,通过参与式观察、深度访谈、问卷调查和文本分析等研究方法,收集相关媒体报道和网上讨论作为研究的文本资料。从物质空间和情感空间两个方面对比分析了怀旧餐厅的地方建构和认同。研究表明,透过记忆的呈现和展示,记忆凝视下的传统再造和怀旧消费导向下的再造传统都是适应全球文化潮流过程中不同的消费物质空间建构形式。从消费者角度来看,怀旧地方又是其情感空间的建构和地方记忆的再生产,表现在地方依恋和地方认同等方面。由于怀旧地方建构中“真实地方”和“构想地方”交集的差异,其地方认同感也存在不同,在很大程度上受到地方根植性、市场机制和后现代消费特征等因素的影响。本文有助于从新文化地理学视角理解怀旧消费空间的地方建构,对指导怀旧消费空间生产和实践有积极的现实意义。

关键词: 怀旧消费空间, 地方建构, 地方认同, 怀旧餐厅

Abstract:

The fashion of urban nostalgic consumption has penetrated into many a field of the socio-cultural life. A great number of nostalgic restaurants have emerged out of the trend, producing urban nostalgia-themed special spaces of consumption and culture. With the interplay between global and local consumptive cultures, the form of local cultures has been constantly changing. As a result of this change, it becomes more urgent to explore the differences existing in the local construction of various spaces of nostalgic consumption. This research selected two distinctive local restaurants, Tai Ping Koon Restaurant and Brothers Nostalgic Café, as objects for the case study. Based on qualitative research methods including participant observation, in-depth interview, questionnaire survey, and text analysis with a collection of media reports and internet discussion data, this article analyzes the local construction of nostalgic restaurants and place identity from the dimensions of material and emotional spaces. The findings include: (1) Through the presentation and performance of memory, either the re-making of traditions under the gaze of memory (the case of Tai Ping Koon Restaurant) or the traditional re-making under the orientation of nostalgic consumption (the case of Brothers Nostalgic Café) should be seen as constructed forms of the materialized space of consumption in view of adapting to the prevalence of global culture. This, to some extent, feeds back into Zukin's view about restaurant as an integration of globalization and localization. (2) It is the consumers who have shaped the emotional spaces for place of nostalgia and made sense of place identity. As constructed "imagined place," spaces of nostalgic consumption are different from the "authentic place" and the construction of emotional spaces for both of them also varies, being influenced to a great extent by factors such as place embeddedness. (3) The evolvement of spaces of nostalgic consumption is under the influence of the dynamics of the locality, the marketing mechanism, as well as postmodernist consumptive patterns. The extent of place embeddedness determines how spaces of nostalgic consumption evolve and will be located. The deeper the locality embedded, the better the local constructions of material and emotional spaces integrate (the case of Tai Ping Koon Restaurant). However, under the influence of postmodernist consumptive patterns and the marketing mechanism, the evolvement of simulated spaces of nostalgic consumption becomes undetermined due to the lack of local authenticity. This research is instrumental in strengthening the interpretation of the local construction of spaces of nostalgic consumption from the perspective of new cultural geographical studies and also provides a useful reference for advising on the production and practices of spaces of nostalgic consumption for cities undergoing dramatic urban regenerations at present.

Key words: space of nostalgia and consumption, local construction, place identity, nostalgic restaurant

李凡, 杨蓉, 黄丽萍. 怀旧消费空间地方建构的比较研究——以广州怀旧餐厅为例[J]. 地理科学进展, 2015, 34(4): 505-516.

Fan LI, Rong YANG, Liping HUANG. A comparative research on local construction of space of nostalgia and consumption: a case study of nostalgic restaurants in Guangzhou[J]. PROGRESS IN GEOGRAPHY, 2015, 34(4): 505-516.

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身体经验	怀旧符号的空间再现	地方记忆再生产
视觉	外观空间：传统骑楼建筑;旧式招牌和对联。内部空间：暗绿底色烫金花纹墙纸;五彩玻璃装饰;西洋吊灯;古色古香屏风,金色的雕花,金色花纹装饰的黑漆木楼梯;周恩来、邓颖超新婚合照;老广州和历史名人的老照片	①历史记忆：广州作为中国对外贸易窗口的城市史、创始人徐老高创办广州华人首家西餐厅的个人奋斗史、太平馆的发展史、周总理夫妇婚宴的轶闻、太平馆接待社会名流的人物史 ②文化记忆：广州西方饮食文化的消费与发展 ③集体记忆：广州老城街巷的变迁、老广州人成长的集体记忆 ④个人记忆：个人的生活片段、老员工的工作和生活经历
触觉	传统红拼砖地板;深棕色皮套卡座;烫金花纹或镂空装饰木质桌椅;靠窗木质细窄手扶楼梯;轻薄纱布窗帘;与历史知识联系在一起的菜牌
嗅觉	民国年代木质装修特有油脂香
味觉	总理餐和总理夫人餐;不变的“六大名菜”^④、怀旧雪糕和金牌烧乳鸽
听觉	1980年代粤语怀旧金曲;讲粤语的老员工服务

身体经验	怀旧符号的空间再现	地方记忆再生产
视觉	外观空间：激光剪影“广州上河图”、Q版漫画招牌内部空间：马赛克砖墙;彩色骑楼屏风;满洲窗;老广州交通图;六七十年代广州街景插画;水晶吊灯、老式吊扇、电视、唱片机等电器;旧式的行李箱、油灯、打字机、电影海报和画报等物件;醒狮头、醒狮鼓、鸟笼、留言板等装饰物	①文化记忆：传统广式美食的回味 ②集体记忆：六七十年代广州城市的街景和生活记忆 ③个人记忆：70后和80后成长环境的青春记忆
触觉	旧式屏风和沙发卡座;水晶珠帘;西式仿古皮质软包墙面
嗅觉	老木质家具的油脂香
味觉	广式传统烧腊和招牌烧鹅;传统粥粉面
听觉	讲粤语的员工服务

序号	怀旧心理倾向测项	太平馆	巴打怀旧茶餐厅
X1	我常会追忆过去的时光	4.2	4.5
X2	虽未经历那些时代,但我对过去时光仍怀有兴趣和好奇	4.4	4.3
X3	流金岁月的那些事物总是更好的	4.5	4.2
X4	我喜欢有怀旧感觉的地方	4.8	4.4
X5	城市里的老街区比新街区有趣得多	5.2	5.0
X6	我喜欢了解一个地方的历史文化	5.8	4.7
X7	现代化的建筑很少像老建筑那样吸引人	4.4	4.3
X8	老街区、老字号更能体现城市的文脉	6.4	5.2
X9	当我在街上散步时,一些老的东西经常吸引我的目光	5.4	4.2

餐厅名称	对餐厅有依恋情结/%	认同餐厅营造怀旧环境/%
太平馆	75.0	91.7
巴打怀旧茶餐厅	35.5	90.0

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